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Julia Holzheim

Hometown: São Paulo, Brazil

International Studies and Economics Major

Julia is a rising senior at Emory, studying International Studies and Economics. Her hobbies include taking pictures, cooking, watching movies and learning more about different cultures. Julia adopted the first two hobbies above during the pandemic, when she had to spend most of her time at home and had more time to explore new things.

Reflection on Making

Pasta with Tomato Sauce and Tuna (Rigatoni alla Bolognese al Tonno)

For this project, I chose to make a dish called “Rigatoni alla Bolognese al Tonno,” a simple Italian dish. I learned this dish in the Spring semester of 2020, the semester when the pandemic started. At the beginning of that semester, when things were still normal, I met a group of exchange students who were studying at Emory, and I became friends with a girl from Italy. From the very first day of our friendship we have gotten along well. We spent a lot of time together and frequently cooked together. She was the person who introduced me to my dish. She is from the Abruzzo region, more specifically from the city called Pescara, which is the largest city in the region. Pescara has a very active fishing community, so she really enjoys sea food. We have this passion for sea food in common, so when she first suggested we cook a pasta sauce containing tuna I agreed right away. While she taught me her dish, she also shared stories and traditions from her home, which made me feel like I was there with her. Every time I cook this dish to someone new, I tell them about her region, city and family.

The pasta is very simple but still delicious and fulfilling. It consists of tomato sauce, tuna and a pasta that is open, so the pieces of tuna and a bit of tomato sauce can fill the pasta. As a result, spaghetti is not the best choice of pasta, like the traditional Bolognese dish, however the rigatoni pasta would be the perfect pairing this the tuna sauce. I personally really enjoy cooking this dish for lunch at home with family or with my boyfriend, so basically with the people that I love. Ever since doing it alone for the first time, I got really attached to this dish. I think it combines many things that I am passionate about in one dish. I think this pasta really embraces simplicity, and I try to do the same thing in my own life. I have always valued the small things in life but during the pandemic this appreciation grew even more. This dish is also an innovative version of one of my favorite dishes, which is just simple pasta with tomato sauce, so this new spin to the classic dish also expresses my new relationship with food that is based on trying new things and being open to change.

After meeting my Italian friend and learning more about her culture, I became fascinated by Italian culture. When I returned to Emory, I enrolled in Italian class and that was when the door to Italian culture really opened to me. I was completed immersed in the culture, music, movies, cuisine, and traditions. This interest for the true Italy also made me interested in the history of this dish. I learned that Italy became a unified country not so long ago and that each region is so different from each other, so I was really interested in knowing where the pasta with tomato sauce and tuna had originated. I researched its origins, but since it is based on simple ingredients easily found in many regions in Italy, people don’t know where this dish originated. My research led me to two possible origins: Sicily and Emilia-Romagna.

Sicily is a possible place of birth for the Rigatoni alla Bolognese al Tonno because it is one of the best places to find fresh tuna. Sicily has many fishing villages that are responsible for catching much of Italy’s seafood, including most of its tuna. Another evidence is that Giuseppe Garibaldi, Italian national hero and a key figure in the movement to unify Italy, was said to have eaten the dish when he arrived in the Sicilian city of Marsala in the year 1860. The Sicilian version of my pasta contains also olives, capers and parsley. For Emilia-Romagna, the evidence lays in the nature of the most famous dish from the region, the Pasta alla Bolognese. My dish is the traditional Bolognese with the difference that it switches red meat ragu for fresh tuna. It is believed that people adopted this new version of the pasta so it could be eaten on religious holidays, such as Christmas Eve and Good Friday. During these holidays, Christians are not allowed to eat red meat, so cooking it with tuna makes it possible to eat this delicious dish every day.

My Rigatoni alla Bolognese al Tonno dish is the backbone of my love for Italy. Every time I cook it, it allows me to share a part of my Italian friend with the people I love, as well as aspects of her culture and country. This dish also symbolizes my culinary progress. The 13-year-old Julia would have refused to eat a new version of her favorite dish just because it was different; however, the 21-year-old Julia sees value in learning this new version for the very fact that it is new.

"where the Sunday lunches come from"

By: Julia Holzheim

the first week of the year was my father’s pride
(and my mother’s rest day)
simple, delicious and matutinal
he’d wake up at 6 am and come to my room and my sister’s
I’m going to the market, you coming?
the sun is not even up
why so early dad?
the best products are found when the marketeer is setting up the tent

sunrise from the car window
foreshadowing the meal of the day
red, yellow and orange
tomato, spaghetti and tangerines
from João’s, Marcela’s and Pedro’s home
they’d tell us
oh how grown up they’ve become
but my sister and I could barely recognize our Sunday companions
at 6am

from the market to my grandma’s home
she entered the car with a bag full of lollipops and candy
heart-shaped, strawberry and grapes
where is grandma’s kiss?
we welcomed her with two big kisses on the cheek
as she entered the car and handed us the candy
just one, we are preparing lunch soon
my dad would eye us sternly from the driver’s seat

at 11 am sharp my dad comes back from a soccer game with his friends
expecting the kitchen to be perfectly organized with the ingredients and cooking utensils
done the German organized way by my sweet sous-chefs
the kitchen hierarchy is based on age
Jubis assistant number one, responsible for the sauce
Paulinha assistance number two, responsible for the pasta

the clock hits 12 pm
my dad steps into the kitchen
fresh out of the shower
Paulinha runs to meet his chef
after losing a game of burraco with my grandma
I get there a minute late
Holzheim’s are never late
Paulinha might get your post if you continue this way
what would grandpa say?

spaghetti with tomato sauce
known as “macarrão do papai”
or “Dad’s pasta” in English
done the German way
created from my immigrant grandfather’s memory
of his arrival in São Paulo
with little money and language skills

the easy and delicious pasta with tomato sauce
seemed the right choice
and so, it became
the staple dish
for the Sunday family reunions

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